Friday 13 October 2017

Rembering the Victims of Nazi Fascism and Stalinist Communism in Krakow


Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House

Dom Śląski, or ‘Silesian House,’ is almost never on the agenda of visitors to Krakow. This is very unfortunate since it is a very chilling relic of Nazi and Soviet occupation that presents evidence of the repression, murder and torture ordinary Cracowians had to endure.

It was originally built as a hostel to house students from Silesia (hence the name). However, during World War 2 this notorious building became the Kraków headquarters of the Gestapo. The first and second floors of the building were used to interrogate ordinary civilians and inmates from the Montelupich prison, which still stands to this day in Podgorze.
Visitors to Dom Śląski today can now visit a branch of the Historical Museum of Krakow named "People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956" housed within the building. This exhibition is a powerful journey through Nazi occupation and the fate of victims of German terror from 1939-1945. Evidence of atrocities are on display including anti Semitic posters, a wallet made from human skin, photographic and film evidence of ordinary, innocent civilians being rounded up on the streets of the city by the cruel, Nazi invaders.

Remembering the victims of Nazi fascism at Dom Śląski 

The exhibition then moves on to demonstrate that the end of the War did not signal the end of the repression, but simply the swapping of one occupier for another - the communists. The exhibition demonstrates the similarities between these two regimes and importantly, it also makes available a database of photos and documents providing evidence which bear witness to victims of Stalinist oppression.
The cellars of Dom Śląski were turned in WW2 into detention cells for the interrogation, torture and beating of prisoners by the Nazis. These cells still exist in their original form and at least some 600 inscriptions made by the unfortunate detainees awaiting their fate at the hands of the Gestapo remain scratched onto the walls. Desperate pleas to God or tally marks counting out how many days of incarceration prisoners suffered are clearly visible and make for a ghoulish reminder of Nazi brutality in truly claustrophobic surroundings.
Inscriptions scratched into the walls of the torture cells
Dom Śląski is only a 15 minute walk from the main market square in the Old Town. It is located on:- 2 Pomorska Street.
To visit the interrogation cells, enter the courtyard of the building and turn right. There are a set of stairs leading down to the cellars and normally there is an attendant present who will show you the way. There is no charge for visiting the cells.

Tuesday 22 August 2017

Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge

Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
The wonderful gravity defying sculptures on the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
Visitors to Krakow should not miss a stroll across the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge. Completed in 2010, it honours a Cracovian monk (who founded the Bonifrater Hospital in Krakow), and now provides a much needed link between the ever popular Bohemian district of Kazimierz to the often neglected Podgórze across the river. Built using no supports and suspended on an arch, it is an attractive structure designed by Andrzej Getter. It is positioned on the site of a former road bridge that was dismantled in 1925. Since it opened, it has encouraged a broad selection of small bars, cafes and restaurants to locate along ul. Mostowa from Plac Wolnica in Kazimierz, across the river onto ul. Nadwiślańska and the Rynek Podgórski in Podgórze. As a result it is sometimes dubbed the "party bridge". In addition, as seems to be the tradition in a number of European cities in recent years, loving couples have bolted their commitment to each other in the form of engraved padlocks which are clamped in their hundreds to the flanks of the bridge. Unfortunately, it seems for many of these lovers, the first post relationship split activity is to hack these padlocks off with bolt cutters - often damaging the railings in the process.
The wonderful gravity defying sculptures on the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
Rynek Podgórski
There is of course an additional reason to take a stroll along the twin walkways of the bridge due to the truly amazing exhibition of acrobatic sculptures dangling in gravity defying poses on the wires of the bridge structure. Nine characters designed by Polish artist Jerzy ‘Jotki’ Kędziora are represented in an installation named "Between the water and the sky". 
The wonderful gravity defying sculptures on the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
Sculpture on the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge
Sculpture on the Father Bernatek Pedestrian Bridge

This is a must see attraction - don't miss it.

Monday 19 June 2017

The Beginner's Guide to the Best Places to Drink in Krakow

With the tourist season in full swing in Krakow, many visitors swarm around the main square and base their experience of the city on the selection of bars and restaurants surrounding it. Of course, these places offer great atmosphere, views and the opportunity to take in the street life of the city centre. However, there is so much more to the city than this obvious, expensive, surface gloss that absolutely must be sought out if you really want to experience what Krakow is all about. Click the link below for the beginners guide to a night out in Krakow.






Monday 29 May 2017

Kraków Street Art

The most commonly viewed "street art" in Kraków are often splurges of graffiti relating to loyalties to the two local football teams - Wisła or Cracovia. Most of this is not worthy of any artistic merit. However, there are some truly praiseworthy examples of true street art peppered around the city streets that really are worth nebbing into. Below are some examples of the more noteworthy exhibits along with some more macabre, thought provoking displays inspired by the dark recesses of Kraków's past.
 Mural on wall in Skwer Judah Food Truck Square, Kazimierz
This mural is entitled 'Judah'. It was created by by Pil Peled who is apparently one of Israel's most famous street artists. It emerged in July 2013 as part of the annual Jewish Culture Festival. The image of the child represents fear, vulnerability and the inner child. The lion represents the Jews' struggle to survive and preserve their culture, as well as strength.
 



The images above are found on ul. Jozefa, Kazimierz outside Pub Wręga. They depict historical figures of significance for the Kazimierz district such as Helena Rubenstein (a former resident of the district), King Kazimierz (after whom the district is named). Plaques next to the figures give info on their significance.
 
This image is of Gene Kelly singing in the rain. Of course, he is "Happy Again" as he now resides in the wonderful Kazimierz district.

Sunday 23 April 2017

Food Truck Frolics


How about trying eating something completely different when visiting Krakow? Like many places across Europe, the city has a blossoming food truck culture where aspiring chefs are pedalling their innovative cuisine. There are an increasing number of venues in which to experience this culinary phenomenon in fun, bohemian, decorative surroundings bringing colour to urban gap sites.

Judah Food Truck Square - otherwise known as Skwer Judah

This is a really cool place to sample grub from the varying tenants. Named after the huge gable end mural (see Kazimierz page for more info on this), try out Belgian fries, chimney cake, gourmet burgers, baked potatoes, extensive menus involving pulled pork and much more. The "Maczanka" from "Andrus Food Truck" in particular is grabbing the attention of the culinary experts. Relax sitting on the assortment of bottle crates, beach chairs and palettes. Run out of cash? Don't worry, there is even a handy bankomat. 
https://www.facebook.com/SkwerJudah/
św. Wawrzyńca 16
Kazimierz
Krakow




Izaak Square

Another food truck square is found nestling in the alleyway linking Szeroka to Kupa called Izaak Square. Beach chairs, crate seating and a variety of trucks offering anything from skewers, tofu treats, Mexican wraps, coffee, curled ice cream and beer. This place has a cool vibe and is very handy for the Kazimierz revellers. On hot sunny days, relax in the hammocks or deck chairs.

Izaak Square
Kazimierz
Krakow


Bezogródek Food Truck Park

If you fancy your food truck grub in a more green, garden like setting, look no further than Bezogródek food truck park. Located daily in a park off ul. Piastowska 20, this place epitomises the whole truck revolution for foodies. There is a big variety on offer here with the usual burger, wraps, fries type offerings as well as Mexican, chicken wings, ice cream and coffee. The usual scattering of deck chairs and crates are offered for seating. Eat well whilst lounging amongst the greenery. 
https://www.facebook.com/pg/bezogrodekstreetfood/about/
Piastowska 20
Krakow


Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski

Finally, we could not discuss food trucks without mentioning Krakow's original and ever popular, food truck. Located at Hala Targowa (Grzegórzecka Street), near the market and the railway bridge, this place serves the best barbecued sausages from a nyska van straight from Poland in the old iron curtain days. Two blokes in white smocks expertly sizzle their sausages (kiełbasa) over a wood fired barbecue. This place is legendary and most deffo is the best sausage in town.
Hala Targowa
Grzegórzecka Street
Krakow

Friday 3 March 2017

Tytano - the Coolest Place in Krakow?

For visitors to Krakow wishing to veer away from the tourist trap of the Old Town, a visit to Tytano is a great option. This place is a real wonder! Often labelled as a "city within a city” it is in reality an abandoned cigarette factory and its outbuildings. However, don’t be put off by this as the intrepid visitor can seek out here an eclectic mixture of cafes, pubs, restaurants, beer halls and an entire factory floor filled with designer exhibits, art, and furniture from local creators. If you are not up for western, sterile, uniform life - get to Tytano!
Hidden top quality enterprises Tytano style

The overall feeling is that of one ginormous "squatting" venture since the cafes, bars etc are quite literally located in empty, abandoned buildings with boarded up windows, crumbling brickwork and graffiti. However, this most definitely has to be one of the hippest, coolest places to hang out in the city. It is to be particularly recommended on warm summer afternoons and evenings when the seating spills out into the alleyways and courtyards surrounding the buildings.
The history of Tytano goes back to 1876 and the Austro-Hungarian occupation when it operated as a cigarette factory named ‘Kaiserliche Koenigliche Tabakfabrik’. It operated for 125 years, ultimately taken over by Philip Morris, but abandoned in 2002.
Boarded up - yet thriving

 
Outside seating Tytano style

Following this it was taken over by Immobiliaria - a Spanish company who had ambitions to turn it into a giant luxury hotel. Luckily this never came to fruition. This company still owns the buildings but is now renting space out to the current collection of enterprises. The contract runs until 2020, but apparently they are queuing up to rent space and there is even talk of a climbing wall and cinema moving in.


At present you will find a fine selection of unexpected pleasures residing in pleasingly shabby, yet classy, innovative urbanite spaces. Choose from wine dens, beer halls, interactive fear escape activity, top notch restaurants and cafes, cutting edge designers displays taking up entire factory floors, fashion design exhibitions and soooooo much more. This place is so cool and is what the real creative heart of Krakow is all about. Don't miss it!
Be inspired at Tytano!
Ripped up pages from books decorate the factory walls
Innovative wall decor
Superb cafe space